I had arrived at Sari in the afternoon from Chopta after returning from a trek to Tungnath. The bus from Chopta had dropped me at Taala village crossing from where I walked until a jeep going to Sari gave me a ride. Sari, a small village in Uttarakhand, India, is the base camp for the trek to Deoria Tal, a small lake nestled in the mountains at an altitude of 2438 m. Deoria Tal is a popular spot for overnight camping, star gazing and the early morning views of Himalayan peaks such as Chaukhamba, Neelkanth, Trishul, Kedarnath Dome, Meru, Sumeru and others.
I was travelling solo and the idea of overnight camping at the lake didn’t have much of an appeal for me. I preferred staying at the village so had checked into a room for Rs 300 at Dev Bhoomi Tourist Lodge. Accommodation options at Sari are quite basic. The local villagers run small lodges and try to maintain them properly. After wandering around the village for a while I sat down at a shop and over a plate of bread omelet and ginger tea, I watched the distant clouds tinted red by the setting sun, hovering above the mountains.
The first view of the lake with a backdrop of the very recognizable Chaukhamba peak was rewarding after the strenuous trek. The green colored lake by itself is not beautiful. However, the wide meadow, dense trees in the surroundings, and the snow capped mountain peaks towering over the lake (their reflections seen particularly well in early morning), provide some great views.
The place is a great spot for a picnic with family or camping with friends. Pick your spot, pitch your tent and relax your tired legs. Read a book, listen to music, play games or take a nap. Meanwhile your camping guy will bring freshly cooked meals for you. Locals running the lodges at Sari can arrange camping at the lake for as low as Rs 500-700. There are some eateries at the entry to the lake which also provide tents for Rs 400-500. I wandered around and later sat by the lake, reading a book and watching the gradually forming clouds enveloping the peaks.
Deoria Tal is a part of the Kedarnath wildlife sanctuary and is a delight for bird watchers too. A large number of birds of different varieties can be seen here. There is a small office at the lake where you are supposed to pay Rs 150 as entry fees. The person sitting there claimed to see a leopard the previous evening. I have no idea if he was telling the truth or mistook a deer for a leopard in the dark. I also noticed a lot of garbage in terms of plastic packets and beer and whiskey bottles lying in the bushes. As much as the authorities need to look into keeping the place clean, tourists also need to be responsible for their garbage. No doubt alcohol adds to the fun of overnight camping but I feel that visitors can and should take their bottles with them while going down and throw them in dustbins at Sari.
Taking one last look at the Chaukhamba going behind the clouds, I soon descended back. Deviating from the main path took me past several houses in the village with cows tied outside them giving me curious glances. Back in Sari, it was time for another evening snack of bread omelet and ginger tea at the same shop. A group of locals chatting there advised me on the route to my next destination, Kartik Swami temple in Kanakchauri village.
Later at dinner, Prakash told me about the self sufficient life in Sari village. The villagers, both men and women, work hard to grow their own crops like rice, mandwa (ragi or millet), potatoes, capsicum, chilies, cauliflower etc. Melted snow and glaciers flowing from the mountains above are a perennial clear water source affected only during peak summers and rainy season. No boiling or filtration, just direct consumption. During winters when it snows heavily, the villagers keep their taps open to let the water flow continuously so as to avoid clogging or freezing of the pipelines. Many young men here join the army or work in power projects or small industries spread across the state.
I was to leave early next morning by the only bus out of Sari to Rudraprayag at 6.30 am. So I settled my bills with Prakash and bade him goodbye as he wouldn’t arrive at the shop before 7 am next morning. I promised to stay at his lodge if and when I come next here. It was a cold night. Today the power was in so the bulbs in the veranda of all the houses in the village were lit which prevented me from seeing a clear starry sky once again. I packed and retired for the night at 9 pm. Next morning I took the bus at 6.30 am and left Sari behind me.
How to reach Deoria Tal:
From Delhi, one can reach Sari by bus/car taking the route Delhi-Rishikiesh-Rudraprayag-Ukhimath-Sari. Those travelling by bus should note that local transport after Ukhimath is scarce. Buses or shared jeeps ply from Ukhimath to Sari but are very infrequent. You need to look out for jeeps going in that direction. The only bus leaving out of Sari is at 6.30 am which goes to Rudraprayag. After that there are no buses but till 8-9 am; some shared jeeps go out of Sari to Ukhimath and other places. Nothing is available after that so plan accordingly.
Best time to go: Deoria Tal is an all season trek. During winter, the place is covered in snow so it offers a different experience.
Tip: Deoria Tal to Tungnath-Chandrashila and vice versa is also a popular trekking trail. Instead of coming back to Sari, you can trek from Deoria Tal to Tungnath and visit Chopta as well. From Chopta, a bus towards Ukhimath leaves at 2.30 pm.
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